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Clinging to its narrow coastal fringe, Loch a’Mhuilinn presents a dramatic landscape of rocky knolls, scattered lochs and windswept woodland. The reserve is well-known for having the most northerly oakwood in Britain. But it should also be celebrated for the great wealth of wildlife it supports this far north. |
Tha Loch a’ Mhuilinn glè bhrèagha le tulaich chreagach, lochan is coillteach ri oir a’ chladaich. Tha an tèarmann seo ainmeil mar a’ choille dharaich as fhaide tuath ann am Breatainn ach bu chòir dha cuideachd a bhith air a chomharrachadh airson na tha de dh’fhiadh-bheatha ann cho fada seo gu tuath. |
Ancient BedrockRocks dating back some three billion years underlie Loch a’Mhuilinn. Known as Lewisian gneiss, these banded grey rocks form a rolling landscape dotted with lochans and peaty hollows. The meagre soils produced by this ancient bedrock have been improved down the years by the woodland, which is the reserve’s main interest. As well as oak, the woodland includes birch, rowan, hazel, willow and holly. The trees reach close to the shore in places and they’re nearly all under 12m (39 ft) because the westerly gales and poor soils have stunted their growth. You can see this most clearly on the more open headlands, where some oaks are reduced to creeping along the ground near the sea. |
CreaganTha creagan a tha mu thrì billean cliadhna a dh’aois fo Loch a’ Mhuilinn. ‘S e gneiss Leodhasach a th’ anns na creagan sin le fillidhean glasa a tha am measg nan lochan is na mòintich. Thar nam bliadhnachan chaidh an ùir thana a tha na seann chreagan seo a’ cruthachadh a leassachadh leis a’ choille. ‘S e a’ choille seo as cudromaiche san tèarmann. Còmhla ri na craobhan daraich tha beithe, caorann, calltainn, critheann agus seileach agus, ann an àitichean, tha a’ choille a’ dol sois cho fada ri beul an Iàin. Cha mhòr nach eil na craobhan gu lèir fo 12m (39 troighean) oir chan eil na gèileachan on iar a’ toirt dhaibh cothrom fàs. Tha seo gu math follaiseach air rudhannan a tha nas fhosgailte, far nach eil ann an cuid dhe na daraich ach nàdar de phris ris an talamh faisg air a’ mhuir. |
Placing the PastThe Vikings held sway here from the 9th-13th century. You can still spot their influence in the area’s place-names, with words like ‘vid, ness, stac, fjord and smoo’ pointing to a Norse source. The Viking influence waned after the Battle of Largs (1263) when the chiefs of Clan Mackay (later known as the Lords of Reay) took charge. Their traditional hunting ground, known as the ‘Reay Forest’, included the surrounding hills of Beinn Stac, Arcuill (Arkle) and Fionn Bheinn (Foinaven). Like much of the rest of the Highlands, the everyday language of this area was once Gaelic and local place-names reflect that. The reserve title translates as ‘loch of the mill’ and refers to the grinding stones that once operated at the outlet from the loch. Other place-names highlight other important reserve features, such as Rubh’ an Dobhrain (otter’s point) and Creagan Daraich (oak crags). |
Ainmeannan‘S ann aig na Lochlannaich a bha a’ chumhachd an seo eadar an 9mh agus an 13mh linn. Tha a’ bhuairdh aca fhathast ri fhaicinn ann an ainmean nan àitichean san sgire le faclan mar ‘vid, ness, stac, bol, fjord agus smoo’ a tha a’ sealltainn freumh Lochlannach. An dèidh Blàr na Leargaidh Ghallda (1263), chrìon buaidh nan Lochlannach agus ghabh cinn-feadhna Chlann Lc Aoidh (ris an cainte Triathan Ràth an dèidh seo) thairis. Chleachd iadsan a bhith a’ sealg ann an ‘Coille Ràth’ a bha a’ gabhail a-steach Beinn Stac, Arcuill agus Fionn Bheinn. Cleas a’ mhòrchuid dhen Ghàidhealtachd, b’ I a’ Ghàidhlig cànan nan daoine san sgìre seo agus tha ainmean àitichean san sgire a’ sealltainn sin. Tha an t-ainm Loch a’ Mhuilinn fhèin againn air sgàth nan clachan-brà a bha uair ag obrachadh aig beul na loch. Tha ainmean eile ann a tha a’ comharrachadh cuid dhe na feartan-tìre cudromach san tèarmann mar Rubh’ an Dobhrain agus Creagan Daraich. |
Trees in RetreatIn 1829 this area came under the control of the Earls of Sutherland. In an effort to make the land more profitable they cleared many people from their homes and introduced large-scale sheep farming. The arrival of huge flocks of sheep led to increased burning of the moor in an attempt to improve the grassland. This extra burning meant fewer young trees survived and the woodland further declined. |
Craobhan a’ crìonadhAnn an 1829 thàinig an sgire seo fo smachd Dhiùcan Chataibh.
Bha iodsan a’ feuchainn ri barrachd prothaid a dhèanamh
às an fhearann agus chuir iad na daoine |
Whittrets, Matrixes and FoumartsIn the 17th century Sir Robert Gordon described the forest as being, “full of reid-deir and roes, woulffs, foxes, wyld catts, brocks (badgers), skuyrells, whittrets (stoats), weasels, otters, matrixes (pine martens), hares and foumarts (polecats)”. Today, many of these animals including badger, fox, otter and pine marten – are still present. Red deer are occasionally present and there are increasing numbers of roe deer in the woodlands. The reserve also supports a varied birdlife, with lochs, reedbeds, woodland, moorland and seashore offering homes. Willow warblers, wrens, tits and redpolls enjoy the cover of the dense birch and willow, while the chattering of redwings, fieldfares and blackbirds often fills the trees. The coastline opposite the wood has a small cliff heronry, and you can often spot common sandpipers and oystercatchers on the shoreline. In winter you may even hear the raucous offshore cry of wintering great northern divers. |
Neasan, taghain agus feòcallainA rèir cunntas on t-17mh linn, bha a’ choille Iàn fhèidh is èildean, madaidhean allaidh, sionnaich, cait fhaidhaich, bruic, feòragan, neasan, dòbhrain, taghain, geàrran agus feòcallain. An-duigh, tha a’ mhòrchuid dhe na beathaichean sin fhathast sa choille. Tha treudan mòra de dh’fhèidh cumanta agus tha àireamh nan earb a’ dol am meud sna coilltean. Tha mòran eòin cuideachd san tèarmann oir faodaidh an dachaigh a bhith sna lochan, sa chuilc, sa choille, sa mhòintich no air a’ chladach. Tha crìonag a’ ghiuthais, an dreathan donn, gocain agus deargan-seilich a’ fuireach sna craobhan beithe agus sna craobhan seilich agus, glè thric, bidh a’ choille Iàn le ceilearadh smeòrach an t-sneachda, uiseag na t-sneachda agus an Iòin-duibh. Tha a’ chorra-ghritheach air a’ chladach, agus chì thu an guilbneach agus an trìlleachan air an tràigh. Sa gheamhradh, dh’fhaodadh gun cluinn thu am buna-bhuchaille ag èigheach air a’ chladach. |
Old Wood, New LifeThe reserve’s coastal setting means it has milder and wetter winters than further inland. These conditions are perfect for lichens, which thrive here on tree trunks and branches. These simple plants – greyish green or sometimes yellow in colour – tell us something about the woodland history of Loch a’ Mhuillinn. Their growth is slow, so their large size confirms this is an old woodland that has survived burning and grazing for perhaps hundreds of years. It’s vital for a healthy woodland to have trees of different ages, so parts of it are always being replaced. When an old tree or group of trees finally dies and falls over, more light enters. This provides the right conditions for new trees to become established and for light-loving plants such as melancholy thistle. Other plants on the woodland floor – such as primrose and wild hyacinth – have a different survival strategy and flower early in the year, taking advantage of the light before the leaves on the trees emerge fully. Other woodland plants include honeysuckle and ivy, which grow up the trees and cascade down the branches. Wild roses push up through the heather and bracken. These flowers are an important source of nectar for moths and butterflies like the speckled wood. Other butterflies you might see here include small pearl-bordered and dark green fritillaries. Their caterpillars feed on the violets under the trees, as well as under bracken. |
Seann choille, beatha ùrTha suuidheachadh an tèarmainn air a’ chladach a’ ciallachadh gu bheil an geamhradh nas ciùine agus nas fliche na tha i a-staigh san tìr. Tha seo math airson nan crotal a tha a’ fàs gu math an seo air crainn is geugan nan craobh. Tha na lusan sìmplidh seo – a tha glas-uaine no, uaireannan, buidhe – ag innse rudeigin dhuinn mu eachdraidh coille Loch a’ Mhuilinn. Cha bhi crotal a’ fàs luath idir. Seach gu bheil e air fàs cho mòr an sea, tha e a’ dearbhadh dhuinn gur e seann choille a tha seo a tha fhathast beò an dèidh fhalaisgean is ionaltraidh fad cheudan bliadhna, ‘s dòcha. Tha e riatanach airson coille fhallain gun bi craobhan innte de dh’aiosean eadar-dhealaichte ach am bi cuid dhi an còmnnaidh air a h-urachadh. Nuair a bhàsaicheas seann chraobh no bad chraobhan agus a thuiteas iad, tha barrachd solais a’ faighinn a-steach dhan choille. Tha sea a’ cruthachadh suidheachadh freagarrach airson craobhan ùra fàs agus airson lusan a tha measail air solas leithid cluas an fhèidh. Tha dòighead eile aig lusan air ùrlar na coille – mar an t-sòbhrag agus an fhuath-mhus – air thghinn beò. Bidh an dithean a’ tighinn orra tràth air a’ bhliadhna agus bidh iad a’ gabhail brath air an t-solas mus bi na duilleagan gu lèir air na craobhan.
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Return of the NativeScottish Natural Heritage has helped Scourie Estate put up a deer fence around the reserve in order to manage deer numbers in the woodland. This is allowing oaks and other native trees to grow and expand into areas where they’d once have been common. On some of the land where there’s no nearby seed source, the estate have planted trees grown from seed gathered around the NNR. Red deer can still enter the reserve, however, by swimming around the headlands. These animals have to be removed, along with the roe deer that breed in the woodland. Both are culled every year to a level where their grazing won’t damage the long-term survival of the wood. |
Croabhan dùthchasach a’ tilleachChuidich Dualchas Nàdair na h-Alba Oighreachd Sgobhairidh le bhith a’ cur feansa timcheall an tèarmainn gus smachd a chumail air àireamhan nam fèidh sa choille. Tha seo a’ leigeil le na craobhan daraich is craobhan dùthchasach eile fàs gu math agus sgaoileadh a dh’àitichean far am biodh iad uair air a bhith bitheanta. Air pàirt dhen talamh gun shìol faisg air, chuir an oighreachd craobhan o shìol a chaidh a chruinneachadh bhon tèarmann. Ach tha fèidh fhathast a’ faighinn a-steach dhan tèarmann oir bidh iad a’ snàmh timcheall nan rudhannan. Feumar na beathaichean sin a chur às agus, cuideachd, na h-earban a tha a’ gintinn sa choille. Tha cuid dhiubh air am marbhadh gash bliadna airson an àireamh a chumail aig ìre nach dèan milleadh buan air a’ choille. |
Follow the Old RoadYou can visit Loch a’Mhuilinn any time. At the reserve entrance there’s an area set aside for parking and from here you can follow an all-abilities track down into the heart of the reserve. This track used to be the main road to Durness until it closed in 1976 – the old passing place signs are a reminder of its former use. About half way along the track there’s a gate that stops access for vehicles, but visitors can continue on foot. The route takes you down past Loch a’Mhuilinn and alongside Loch Duartbeg. Look out for dragonflies here – they like to rest on the white lichen that patterns the lochside wall. They also sit on the edge of the loch’s water lillies and bend their tails under the leaves, where they lay their eggs. Dragonflies are an important feature of the reserve, with 10 different kinds recorded there. The path carries on to the boundary fence at the other end of the reserve. However, if you’re visiting with a wheelchair or pushchair then you may wish to turn back sooner before the path gradient becomes too steep. Loch a’Mhuilinn lies about 4km (2.5 miles) south of Scourie village in northwest Sutherland. It’s located off the A894, on the northeastern short of Eddrachillis Bay. A limited bus service connects with Ullapool and Inverness. Scotland’s natural heritage is a local, national and global asset. SNH promotes its care and improvement, its responsible enjoyment, its greater understanding and appreciation, and its sustainable use, now and for future generations. |
Lean an seann rathadFaodaidh tu tadhal air Loch a’ Mhuilinn uair sam bith. Tha àite pàircidh mar a tha thu a’ dol a-steach dhan tèarmann. Tha ceum a’ falbh às an seo a bheir thu gu meadhan an tèarmainn. B’ e seo an rathad a bha a’ dol a Dhiùrnais gus an do dhùin e ann an 1976. Tha na seann shoighnichean fhathast ann airson seo a chur nar cuimhne. Mu letheach slighe, tha geata ann agus chan fhaigh carbadan nas fhaide na seo, ach faodaidh daoine cumail orra dhen cois. Tha an t-slighe ga do thoirt sìos seachad air Loch a’ Mhuilinn agus ri taobh Loch Dubhaird Bheag. Bu chòir dhut coimhead airson tarbhain-nathrach an seo oir is toigh leotha an crotal geal a tha a’ fàs air a’ bhalla ri taobh na loch. Bidh iad cuideachd air na gucagan-bàite aig oir na loch. Bidh na h-earbaill aca a’ lùbadh fo na duilleagan agus bidh iad a’ breith nan uighean an sin. Tha na tarbhain-nathrach cudromach san tèarmann le 10 seòrsachan eadar-dhealaichte air an clàradh ann. Tha an ceum a’ cumail air gu feansa na crìche aig ceann eile an tèarmainn. Ach ma tha cathair-cuibhleach no carbad-pàiste agad, ‘s dòcha gum bi thu airson tilleadh mus ruig thu seo oir tha e a’ fàs gu math cas. Tha Loch a’ Mhuilinn mu 4 cil (2.5 mhile) deas air baile Sgobhairidh ann an ceann an iar thuath Chataibh. Tha e far an 1894, air a’ chladach an ear thuath air Bàgh Eadar Dhà Chaolas. Tha bus uairennan a’ dol a dh’Ulapul agus a dh’Inbhir Nis. Tha dualchas nàdarra na h-Alba cudromach aig ìre ionadail,
nàiseanta is eader- |
Experience Scotland at its natural best!Scotland has over 50 National Nature Reserves for you to explore and enjoy. Click on www.nnr-scotland.org.uk for some natural inspiration! |
Meal Alba gu nàdarra!Tha Còrr is 50 Tèarmann Nàdair Nàiseanta ann an Alba air am faod thu tadhal. Brùth air www.nnr-scotland.org.uk airson fiosrachadh mu nàdar. |
For more information, please contact: Scottish Natural Heritage |
Airson tuilleach fiosrachaidh, cuir fios gu: Dualchas Nàdair na h-Alba |