Introduction
Glen Affric contains one of the largest surviving native pinewoods in the United Kingdom.
These ancient Caledonian woodlands are direct dedcendants of trees that first colonised the area after the last Ice Age 8-10,000 years ago.
Centuries of destruction by felling, damage by fire, and grazing by deer and sheep has reduces the ancient Caledonian Forest to less than 1% its original area.
The Forestry Commission purchased Glen Affric in 1951. Since then, positive conservation has reduced the core of the woodland. In 1994, Glen Affric was designated a Caledonian Forest reserve of over 9000 hectares.
History
Very little is known of the earliest forest dwellers. They were probably hunter-gatherers using the forest as a productive source for food. From the 15th century, Glen Affric was part of the Chrisholm territories and remained with the clan until 1858. Infertile soils have never made Affric popular for farming, but commercial timber was cut from the estate as early as 1560 when wood was supplied from Affric for repairing bridges in Inverness.
From 1725-1730 Joseph Avery produced a map of valuable timber for Rodericks Chrisholm, where the woodland around Loch Beinn a Mheadhoin and Loch Affric was described as "woods of very large Firr and Birch". Roderick Chrisholm made great efforts to sell timber from his woods, including setting up sawmill in 1750, near Loch Bein a Mheadhoin. The wood was of high quality, sometimes sold for ships masts and spars. A nearby hill, (Hill of Spara), is so named to reflect this particular use of timber. A contract for selling over 1000 trees per year witht the Englsh Iron Company started in 1765 and lasted for some 30 years. This provided the raw material for smelting iron, in great demand during the Industrial Revolution. Between 1801 and 1810 many of the Chrisholms left the Glen Affric area during the period of the infamous Highland Clearances when sheep replaced people. By 1858 there were only 6 tenants, no cattle, but 30,000 sheep in the glen. By this time the last of the large predators, the worlf, had dissapeared. There were no longer any natural controls on deer numbers, which were set to escalate.
In the second half of the 19th Century the Victorian concept of the highland sporting estate eveloved and from this point the decline of the woodland accelerated. Deer were encouraged as a source of sport and heave sheep grazing continued.
The Victorian estate owner Lord Tweedmouth of nearby Guisachan estate took a long lease on Glen Affric in 1864 for deer stalking. In 1870 he built Affric Lodge as a gentleman's shooting lodge and the pattern of land-use was set for the next 90 years.
Conservation Projects
The reserve is a busy example of conservation in action, led by Forest Enterprise, continuing conservation activity which streatches back over 40 years.
High in the hills above Loach Bienn a Mheadhoin, can be found deer free enclosures. These have been establishes to protect young seedlings that have either grown naturally or have been planted in treeless areas to provide seed source for the future. similar enclosures can also be foun near Loch Affric. Since 1989, help has been recieved from the charity "trees for Life" who share a common desire to see the woodland recover. Other groups have also assisted with volunteers, including Scottish Conservation Projects and the Scottish Wildlife Trust.
Older enclosures, within the reserve, are benefitting by the non-native trees being felled and fences restored. Sometimes this work is a priority and needs to be carried out before non-native trees produce timber.
Elsewhere, notably near the Chisholm Bridge, native Scots pine plantations have been thinned to produce timber and leave behind a much improved wooland structure. The timber was extracted by horse so that minimal imapct would occur to the forrst floor.
Wildlife
Glen Affric is a haven for wildlife. There is a wide range of habitats including high mountain and warm forest. Roe, Sika and Red deer are present.
Watch for them at dan or dusk, or on the open hill above tree line. Pine marten have increased in numbers over the past 10 years, although their nocturnal habits make a good sighting unlikely.
Red squirrel, badger, fox, otter, stoat and weasel may be found, in addition to voles, mice, Brown and Blue hare. The wild cat unfortunatly is now quite rare. Frogs, toads, slow worm, adder and lizard add to this diverse community.
Among the 100 different species of bord identified in Glen Affric, important pinewood specialists are the seed-eating Crested tit, Scottish crossbill and weyneck. Capercaillie are present but very few in number. Keep and eye open for the buzzard and Golden eagle or the dipper by the waters edge.
Glen Affric has been known as a rich site for dragonflies since the Northern emerald (somatochlora metallica) was discovered in Affric in 1869. This dragonfly has only one other known habitat in scotland. There are 14 of which 3 are rare in Britain and one rare in Europe. The Reserve is one of the most important dragonfly locations in Britain.
many are beetles, ants and hoverflies can be found, occupying their own special niche in the enviroment.
The native pinewoods have their own natural vegetation.
The most valuable is the semi-natural woodland of Scots pine and birch. Scattered throughout are alder, rowan, willow, aspen, hazel, holly and juniper. You may even find an occasional oak or wych elm. Also easily found are heather, blaeberry, moor grass, sedges and mosses.
Of the rarer plants, the Reserve supports two special orchids - Creeping Ladies Tresses and Lesser Twayblade. Wintergreens and Twinflower are also present and are particularly interesting.
The area is of national importance for lichens, plants which attatch themselves to trees but gain their nourishment from the air and from water flowing down the bark of the tree. There are 14 nationally rare species, including Micarea elastica, new to Britain in 1994.
River Affric WalK
River Affric Walk
The river Affric walk takes you along the banks of the river as it tumbles down from the Loch Affric to Loch Beinn a Mheadhoin. Looking ahead from the river side, the majestic heights of Sgurr na Lapaich can be seen, rising to 1036 m (3367ft). On both sides of the river young naturally regenerated trees are evidence of the woodlands recovery.
Athnamulloch Bothy
This remote area is generally only accessible by foot. The buildings once formed a hill sheep farm, one of a number of similar settlements around the headwaters of the River Affric. These are located along the important former drove road linking the west coast of Kintail to the sheep markets of the east. Athnamulloch was also used as a staging post, where grass, water and rest was available for the drove herds. It is now used as bothy accommodation for conservation workers and is maintained in a wind and waterproof condition by Forest Enterprise.
In this vast open hill area, the prescense of old stumps in the peat is the evidence of the extent of the former forest. In many cases these are over 1000 years old. Preserved pine cones have been found, along with the charred residue of extensive fires showing how the forest was deliberately cleared to form the landscape we see today.
Nearby, young woodlands of birch and rowan are being restored and protected against grazing. New areas of trees, including Scots pine, are being established to provide a seed source for future natural regeneration. This will help the forest to restore itself.
Many long Distance backpackers pass by this area, crossing the river over the single span footbridge, built by Forest Enterprise in 1993.
Am Meallan Walk
The Am Meallan walk climbs to an excellent viewpoint looking west to the Mullach Fraoch - choire, 1102 m(3582ft). which is wholly within the Reserve. Affric Lodge (private) can be seen in the near distance.
Nearby, non-native trees have been felled to relieve possible fatal shading on caledonian pined and sensitive ground vegetation. On the viewpoint is a tribute to Professor Steven and all the foresters who have worked to save the pinewoods in Glen Affric over the years.
Plodda Falls
Plodda and nearby Guisachan (Gaelic for "pine") were the strongholf of the Fraser clan until 1854 when the estate was purchased by sir Dudley Marjoribanks (the first Lord Tweetmouth).
Plodda Falls Walk
Lord Tweedmouoth built the spectacular bridge over the falls in 1880. It was restored by the Forestry Commission in 1984. The walk passes through some magnificent Douglas fir and European larch trees planted between 1895 - 1900. The Douglas fir are considered to be amoung the highest quality in Britain and selected stems are sometimes felled for ship masks. The masts of Scott's restored "Discovery" at Dundee came from his stand.
Dog Falls
Dog Falls Walk
A Steep start takes you into the heart of the pinewood and into an area of conservation success. In 1960 this woodland was very open - only a few old trees survived and the ground was heavily grazed by sheep and deer. Since then numbers have been controlled and the woodland has been restored, largely through natural regeneration.
Viewpoint Walk
The Viewpoint shows you the classic Affric view. On a clear day you can see over 21 km (31miles) and most of what you can see is within the Reserve.
Coire Loch Walk
The Coire Loch trail passes a beautiful woodland lochan, an important breeding site for many species of dragonfly. Look out for crested tits, which are fairly common here.
Tweedmouth Walk
This longer walk takes you through diverse woodland, with many trees owing their existance to the grand landscaping plans of Lord Tweedmouth. Look out for the old carriage drive and river ford set within towering stems of Douglas fir.
Welcome. Bienvenue. Willkommen. Benvenuti
Welcome to Glen Affric Caledonian Forest Reserve and the forest of Glen Affric, Glen Cannich and Plodda Falls, all in the care of Forest Enterprise. You are free to walk amoung the ancient pine forest.
The forest reserve is of great value to the enviroment - only 1% of semi-natural forest survives in the United Kingdom - Forest Enterprise are safeguarding and restoring it to goof condition. Wildlife in the reserve abounds, you may see species like the Red deer, Crested tit and Buzzard. Dragonflies are common and even Adders may be seen. These are timid but should be avoided - they are Britain's only poisonous snake.
Forest Enterprise provide a Ranger service during the summer to help you understand your surroundings. Information boards and picnic benches can be found in our forest car parks.
Guided walks, lectures and visits to the Reserve can be arranged on request. Waymarked walks of various length and interest are provided. Cyclists are welcome and long distance walking routes continue beyound the reserve,
We hope you will enjoy your visit.
Other Native Pinewoods
Other local remnants of the Caledonian forest can be found in Glen Cannich and at Cougie/Guisachan near Plodda Falls. Work is ongoing in these areas too, along exactly the same lines as Glen Affric.
Elsewhere, the work by Forest Enterpirse continues - Notably at Glenmore (near Aviemore), Glen Garry (in the Great Glen), in the Black Wood of Rannoch (Perthshire) and in the Atlantic oakwoods of Argylll.
Why not explore these ancient woodlands too, and compare them with the magnificence of Glen Affric?
The "LIFE" Programme
The LIFE programme is a European initiative launched in May 1992 which provides funding to promote implementatation of the Fifth Enviromental Action programme. Its purpose is to encourage countries of the European Union to adobt the principles of sustainable development - the achievment of an acceptable balance between human and enviromental protection and enhancement.
LIFE is a demonstration programme. Projects are selected where innovative approaches are being used to address issues of common interest to a number of countires within the Union. There is considerable emphasis on the disseminating information on the pilot projects widely within Europe such that the experience obtained through the programme can be built upon successful projects replicated in other member states.
LIFE is supporting two projects in Glen Affric.
The Glen Affric "Visitor Management" project was selected for support in 1994 and was the first LIFE project to be implemented in the Highlands. The project was led by Highland Regional Council in partnership with Highlands & Islands Enterpirse, Scottish Natural Heritage and the Forestry Commission.
A second project "inventory and Restoration of a Priority Habitat" was also selected for support during 1994. This 2 year project was submitted by "The Caledonian Partnership" comprising of Highland Birchwoods, Scottish Wildlife Trust and the Forestry Commision.
Information on the LIFE programme can be obtained from the Project Officer, 2 Achany Road, Dingwall IV15 9JB.
The Future
What of the future?
Forest Enterprise has resolved to double the core area of pinewoods in its ownership by the year 2000.
It has also resolved in increase the area of ancient broadleaves from 2000 hectares to 3000 hectares within the same period.
A network of Caledonian Forest Reserves is being established. Eventually 18,000 hectares (over43,000 acres) will be protected by this designation and will cover forest, hill and sea loch, bog and mountain. They will be managed primarily for conservation with timber production only as a by - product of essential restoration work. Regeneration and expansion will be largely through natural seeding. Visitor access will be encouraged on robust parts of the Reserves.
The financial returns will be small.
The enviromental, scientific and recreational returns will be priceless.
For further information please contact:
The Forest District Manager
Fort Augustus Forest District
Strathhoic, Fort Augustus
Inverness-shire PH32 4BT
Tel: 01320 366322