The island of Noss is renowned as one of Europe’s finest wildlife sites. Its 180 metre high sea cliffs – dramatic at any time of year – come to life in summer when tens of thousands of seabirds return here to nest. This small island presents one of the most easily reached seabird colonies where you can experience these wonderful creatures close-up.

Come to Noss and discover for yourself the sights, sounds and smells of this seabird skyscraper.

Nose into the past

The island’s name comes from the Norse word for ‘nose’, possibly in the sense of a headland. The Norse who arrived in the 8th century were far from being the first on Noss though. Perhaps 2000 years before, Neolithic families had settled here, probably drawn by the sandy soils at the western end of the island. Islanders worked this fertile land and kept livestock continuously until the 19th century. You can still clearly see the ridge and furrow patterns of former farming.

In 1870 the Marquis of Londonderry leased the island for use as a stud farm. He bred Shetland ponies to work down his coal mines in northern England. Next to the buildings near the landing is the restored pony pund, built to house the mares.

Sheep farming continues today on Noss. For most of the year the sheep are free to wander where they choose but during lambing they’re brought west of the dry stone hill dyke. This separates the moorland from the better ground. Here the ewes give birth away from predatory birds and under the watch of the shepherd.

Moorland muggers

The moorland heart of Noss is the stronghold of the skuas. Both Arctic and great skuas nest on the ground, laying two eggs in a shallow scrape. When the fluffy chicks hatch they leave the nest and are good at hiding amongst the plants. The adult birds defend their nests aggressively, swooping on anything that comes close. Skuas rarely make a direct hit, but if you’re attacked then hold your hand or a stick above your head to deter them. Please don’t try to hit them – remember, they’re only protecting their young.

The Arctic skua (known as a ‘skooty allan’ in the Shetland dialect) is a slim, sharp winged bird with an easily seen central tail plume. It lives almost entirely by stealing fish from other birds. Aerial contests between Arctic skuas and kittiwakes or puffins are fast and furious affairs.

Arctic skuas used to breed in large numbers all over the island. However, their bulkier relative, the great skua or ‘bonxie’, has gradually edged them out. This is a globally rare species, but over 400 pairs of bonxies nest on Noss, making it the fourth largest colony in the world.

High rise living

The Noup of Noss is a familiar landmark to seafarers approaching Lerwick from north or south. Rising to 180 metres, these are the highest cliffs on Shetland’s east coast.

Noss is almost the perfect home for cliff-nesting seabirds: it’s a high-rise block surrounded by food. The sandstone cliffs have weathered to produce horizontal ledges and honeycomb holes perfect for nesting. The shallow, sandy seabed to north and south is a spawning ground for sandeels. These tiny fish are the staple food of puffins, terns and kittiwakes. You may see dense shoals of them beneath the boat as you cross to the island.

The most numerous birds are 45,000 black and white guillemots that crowd the lower ledges. The females each lay a single egg directly on the bare rock. Their close relative the razorbill nests here too, looking much like a guillemot but choosing more secure sites in holes or under boulders.

As you walk around the high cliffs you’ll be aware of the noise and smell of 8000 pairs of gannets (known as ‘solan geese’ in Shetland dialect). These are the largest of Britain’s seabirds, with a wingspan up to 1.8 metres. Feeding gannets are a spectacular sight as they plunge from heights of up to 30 metres to grab fish beneath the surface. Gannets first bred on Noss as recently as 1914 and numbers are still slowly rising each year.

The fulmar is another fairly recent arrival on Noss and didn’t nest in Shetland at all until the late 19th century. Nowadays, it’s by far the commonest seabird in Shetland. Fulmars nest not only on sea cliffs but also on peat banks, road cuttings and derelict buildings. Fulmars are known as ‘maalies’ locally and defend themselves by spitting foul-smelling oil at attackers. Even newly hatched chicks can spit, so it’s a good idea not to get too close!

Time soon passes watching a seabird colony. In some places, if you sit quietly, you’re likely to find that puffins are as interested in you as you are in them. Puffins generally mate for life and return to the same cliff-top burrow year after year. After spending the winter apart at sea, bill rubbing helps to re-form the bond between the pair.

Blooming cliffhangers

Roseroot, red campion and sea campion are amongst the many flowers that form a natural rock garden on the sea cliffs. They survive here because they’re beyond the reach of grazing sheep and fertilised by bird droppings.

Brown moorland covers the centre of the island and is made up of heather, crowberry, common cotton grass and heath wood-rush. You’ll find occasional splashes of colour where lousewort, heath spotted-orchid and sea-milkwort flower.

Skyway crossroads

Noss attracts many other birds. In spring and autumn many migrants drop in to rest and refuel on their way to or from their breeding grounds.

Some remain here to breed. The territorial ‘drumming’ noise of snipe and the calls of dunlin can be heard over the moorland in May and June. Lapwing and oystercatcher prefer grassy areas, whilst ringed plovers lay their beautifully camouflaged eggs amongst the pebbles on the beaches. So please mind where you tread!

Whilst walking around Noss, you may notice shags and black guillemots in the sea. Listen out for porpoises, especially in Noss Sound. On calm days you’ll often hear a loud puff before you see them as they come up for air. You may even spot an otter - they’re often seen around the southern coast of Noss.

Heading for Noss

Between late May and late August – weather permitting – a small inflatable boat shuttles visitors across Noss Sound every day, except Mondays and Thursdays. The boat is not suitable for dogs. A red flag flies on the island if the weather is too severe to cross. Call the Noss freephone number 0800 1077818 before setting out so that you avoid disappointment.

Please wear sensible footwear so that you can safely cross the slippery rocks when using the Noss boat. You should also take warm waterproof clothing, as the Noss weather can be very changeable. Two wardens are based at the visitor centre all summer and one of them is usually on hand to answer questions.

SNH and the island owner manage Noss under an agreement. As well as being a nature reserve, the island is part of a sheep farm and a fine example of how farming and wildlife can co-exist. Please leave all gates as you find them.

Getting to Noss

There’s a regular ferry service from Lerwick to the island of Bressay, which you have to cross in order to reach Noss. It’s three miles across Bressay to the Noss visitors’ car park. The ferry to the reserve is operated by SNH and a small charge is made for the return journey.

To check opening times, date of special Open Day and whether the ferry is running, call freephone 0800 1077818. This is updated daily by 0900, May–August.